Whichever way you look at it, Melbourne is pretty far to travel for, well, just about everyone.
However with its vibrant food and drink scene, world-class sporting venues, historic Southbank on the Yarra River and location on the coast, the city has something to reward everyone who makes the long trip. As the location for the opening round of the F1 season in March, it's the perfect place to get the party started - the weather is usually warm as Summer slides slowly into Autumn, although you can still get caught out by a deluge - and the memory of the long flight and discombobulating jet lag soon dissolves with a cold VB beer watching the world go by at a pavement cafe downtown.
In a few short years, Melbourne has evolved into becoming the gourmet capital of Australia, thanks mainly to its incredibly diverse population and the resulting melting pot of cuisines, and a 'throwing out the rule book' mentality which binds much of the culinary world. In fact the best description for Melbourne's attitude to food is 'relaxed'.
Despite this laid back approach, there is one meal that Melburnians take vey seriously indeed - breakfast. Brunching is almost a competitive sport in this town, and there are countless options in every neighbourhood where you can enjoy the most important meal of the day, right through until evening, if you wish.
Where to eat
St Kilda is a buzzing area of Melbourne, and a short walk South from Albert Park with many bars and restaurants lining the approach to St Kilda Beach. Melbourne is well known for its coffee culture and you’ll find many coffee shops and bakeries each trying to lay claim to the best flat white. One such place is the tiny Rye and Dough on Fitzroy Street where loaves of freshly baked sourdough are stacked high in the window and the queue is out the door most mornings.
For something more substantial, wander further along Fitzroy Street and you’ll find The Banff - a cosy wooden restaurant reminiscent of an old mountain cabin on the site of what once were barracks used by American and Canadian soldiers during the Second World War. Here you can grab a pizza and beer for under 20 dollars.
As food institutions go, Lune in Fitzroy has to be one of the best known around. It is not unheard of for queues to start forming outside the shop at the break of dawn, so coveted are the croissants made here. The Mercedes-AMG F1 team is a fan, and serves a selection of Lune’s delectable pastries in its hospitality unit during Australian grand prix week.
The New York Times once declared Lune’s croissants as ‘the best in the world’ -maybe the secret lies in founder Kate Reid’s former career as an aerodynamicist at the Williams F1 team, either way, the pastries are well worth lining up for.
(To find out how Kate went from a career in composite layers to dough lamination, you can read the interview I did with her here).
Mark Webber’s Melbourne
Despite hailing from New South Wales, former F1 driver Mark Webber has a soft spot for Melbourne – not least because on his debut in F1 in 2002, it’s where he scored his first ever points for the Minardi team owned by fellow Aussie, Paul Stoddart.
“You can’t find a bad coffee in Melbourne unless you’ve really stuffed up. South Melbourne, St Kilda, Brunswick St, Fitzroy St…any little cool café will dish up something pretty good.
There’s about a dozen awesome eateries along, or near Flinders Lane between Swanston St and Exhibition St in the city. And don’t order, tell them how hungry you are – ask to be fed. You’ll get lots of small serves of their best dishes. My favourite is Tonka”
And for those of a more active disposition…
“The best run is the Tan (The Tan Track – a 3.827km track around Melbourne’s Botanic Gardens). Counter clockwise is harder…most people go clockwise. Also along the foreshore of St Kilda or the bush trails along the bay in Hampton”
Set amongst the office blocks of South Melbourne, and nestled underneath a sleek glass tower is the heritage-listed café/restaurant Kettle Black. The building was a traditional Victorian terrace and has maintained its striking ornate frontage. Inside however, despite the odd original fixture, the rest of the space is clean and modern with a menu to match. The signature hotcake with seasonal berries and edible flowers is a must try.
A forty minute stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens and over the river to Richmond you'll find Pillar of Salt, whose innocuous exterior on a road full of furniture shops and showrooms, belies its charm within. With exposed brick walls and an airy courtyard with reclaimed seating, it's a popular spot where they take the business of coffee extremely seriously with an accompanying eclectic menu.
As Melbourne is an ocean city, it would be remiss to not add in somewhere to eat where you can sit and watch the kite surfers and spectacular sunset. Republica is just the ticket. Located next to the St Kilda Seawater Baths this beachside restaurant serving a crowd pleasing menu, is the perfect spot to enjoy a bite to eat whilst gazing across the sand to the sparkling water of Port Phillip Bay.
The Builders Arms Hotel on the corner of Gertrude Street in Fitzroy, is one of the oldest pubs in Melbourne. Built in 1853 this classic boozer has undergone many incarnations since then, most notably as a place for social and political gatherings of marginalised groups in the 1940's through to the 1980's. The pub, and indeed area, has undergone enormous change since then but what remains is the front bar where you can order from a selection of Australian beers and wines, and no nonsense bar food to be enjoyed at a pavement table whilst you put the world to rights.
Just beyond St Kilda in Elsternwick is Smoke and Pickles, a small but perfectly formed burger joint with an impressively inventive array of side dishes such as compressed watermelon with pickled rind, and an equally impressive cocktail list. A bonus for Star Wars fans is the option to dine under a mural of Darth Vader and Boba Fett.
Elsewhere in the city there are restaurants to suit all budgets but if you’re looking to splash a bit of cash and take in an incredible view of the city at the same time, then Vue de Monde is the place to go. Located on the 55th floor of Melbourne’s iconic Rialto Building –Australia’s tallest building when constructed in 1986 – you can experience an exquisite tasting menu with far reaching views of up to 60km on a clear day. It’s not cheap but it is definitely very special.
What to do
Join the legions of instagrammers and wander down Hosier Street in Melbourne's CBD to marvel at the grafitti on display on everything from walls and doors to wheelie bins.
Take a tour of the famous Melbourne Cricket Ground
Get up early to catch the sun rise at St Kilda Pier, then head back at sunset to see the delightful Little Penguins at the breakwater as they return to their burrows.
Take a ride on the world’s longest continually operated (wooden) roller coaster at Luna Park, St Kilda.
Stroll around the city’s historic lanes and arcades, dating back to Victorian times. Once used as laneways for horses and carts, they are now home to cafes and boutiques.
For something more thrilling, why not jump out of a plane from 15,000ft over Port Phillip Bay?